When a solar light stops lasting the night, the battery has almost always failed before the panel or the LED. Replacing the pack is usually a fraction of the cost of replacing the fitting.
Built to fit what you already have
We build replacements to the original compartment dimensions and connector, so the pack goes back in without modification. Send a photo of the old battery, its label and the space it sits in — in most cases that is enough for us to identify the voltage, capacity and chemistry and quote without any measurements from you.
Worth upgrading while you are at it
Two changes are usually worth making at replacement time:
- Move to LiFePO4 if the original was ordinary lithium-ion. Solar lighting means daily deep cycling in a hot enclosure, which is exactly the duty LFP handles better and NMC handles worst.
- Increase the capacity if the housing has room. The most common reason these systems disappoint is that the original battery had no reserve for consecutive overcast days, so it was repeatedly run flat.
Check the controller too
If the light was originally lead-acid and the battery was swapped for lithium at some point, the charge controller may still be running a lead-acid charge profile. That will shorten the life of any lithium pack fitted to it. Tell us what controller is in there, or send a photo, and we will tell you whether it needs attention as well — replacing the battery alone into a mismatched controller simply repeats the failure.
Quantities
We build single replacements and batches. If you maintain a number of lights on the same site, sending one old pack lets us quote for the whole set.
Send us the voltage, capacity, discharge current and the space you have — or a photo of the battery you are replacing. We will come back with a specification and a price.